 |
|
1914
Dr. Federico Reichert, "The Father of Climbing," penetrated
the South Patagonian Icecap (SPI) for the first time via the
Perito Moreno Glacier, arriving at what was later called the
"Reichert Step", sighting, according to his writings, the
peaceful coast. It is doubtful that what they sighted was
the Pacific as it is usually very difficult to see the sea
from this region.
1916 Expedition
of the Buenos Aires-based German Scientific Society. Participants
were Alfredo Kšlliker, Lutz Witte, Franz KŸhn, and the photographer
Hans Joergesen. Accessed the SPI middle of February, ascending
from Viedma Lake up the Tunel River, over Cerro Huemul and
onto the Paso de los Cuatro Glaciares (Pass of the Four Glaciers).
1928
Mar’a Albert of Agostini, "the Father of Patagonia," began
explorations of the region, leaving from Punta Arenas.
1929
Agostini explores the Baguales Mountains.
1931
Agostini ascends the Upsala Glacier from Lago Argentino, arriving
on the SPI in early February. Continued to a plateau of snow
he named Altiplano Italia (Italy Plateau), where he climbed
a mountain he called Mount Torino. Agostini sighted Fiordo
Falcon and the Pacific Ocean and also named Cerro Murall—n
and Cerro Don Bosco. GŸnther PlŸschow made the first flights
over the region in the Silver Condor. His plane ditched into
Lago Argentino killing himself and his mechanic.
1933
Federico Reichert again penetrates the SPI via the O'Higgins
Glacier from Lago OÕHiggins/San Martin. After a long wait
for clear weather he sighted a vapor-emitting volcanic cone
of about 3000 meters in altitude. Surprisingly, the first
discovery of the Lautaro Volcano was not considered, and it
remained hidden for another than 30 years. Ilse von Rentsell
becomes the first woman on the SPI.
1952
Argentineans. An expedition endorsed by President Peron, organized
by Dr. Bruno Guth and led by the head of the Argentinean Army,
Emiliano Huerta. Expedition participants were Mario Bertone,
Arrigo Bianchi, Folco Doro Atlan and Antonio Ruiz Beramendi.
Attempted the first crossing of the SPI, with the idea of
determining the division of the drainage systems. Beginning
the voyage on February 4 they arrive at the FitzRoy region,
cross the Marconi Pass, sighting the Pacific Ocean, possibly
Fiordo Exmouth, on February 16. Returned via the same route
arriving February 23. They name the highlands Caupolic‡n,
and Lautaro Volcano, and climb North Cerro Marconi and the
White Dome. On their return they are received by Peron as
national heroes. The National Institute of the Continental
Ice is formed as a result of their expedition. They used individual
Nansen-type sleds and telemark skis. Although regarded by
the Argentineans as a traverse of the SPI, they did not reach
the Pacific Ocean.
1955
- 56 The famous English
explorer, Harold William (Bill) Tilman, with the backing of
the Royal Geographical Society of London, arrives at Punta
Arenas in his sailing cutter - Mischief. A Chilean, Jorge
Quinteros, joins the team and they penetrate the Patagonian
fiords, disembarking December 17. Beginning their trek on
January 1, the team heads towards the plateau arriving at
the foot of Cerro Cervantes on January 13. They descended
Perito Moreno Glacier arriving at Lago Argentino January 18,
where they took a bath in the cold waters. They returned via
the same route, arriving at their boat on January 27, completing
their journey of 60 km in 27 days. The expedition also sailed
into Fiordo Peel where it lost part of its propellor. TilmanÕs
was the first ÔsportÕ expedition and completed the first traverse
of the SPI. They didn't use skis or sleds.
1958
Chilean and Japanese expeditions that would operate simultaneously
on the ice, in the zone of the Barros Arana Range and the
North Patagonian Icecap. There is not much information available
on these trips.
1958
The famous English explorer, Eric Shipton, completed three
notable expeditions to the region. The first using a Zodiac
to cross Lago Argentino, ascending the Onelli Glacier and
crossing the icecap until sighting the Pacific fiords below
the Penguin Glacier. Meeting with John Barry, and Geoffrey,
they try to cross the valley to Cerro Mayo, then continue
toward the Pacific. This area, the Mayo Pass, poses severe
difficulties, and they finally arrive at Laguna Escondida
before ascending the eastern margin of the Glaciar de Mayo
to the Ameghino Glacier. They collected an enormous range
of plant species.
1958-59
With Englishmen, Jack Ewer and Peter Miles, Shipton ascended
the very broken O'Higgins Glacier. Finally they arrived at
a nunatak from where they sighted the Lautaro Volcano, locating
it finally after 30 years of mystery. They met a pair of Chileans,
Edward Garc’a and Cedomir Marangunic, with whom they would
later carry out long expeditions.
1959-1961
? Argentineans, Hugo Corbella, Jorge Marticorena, Luis Costas
ascend the SPI from Lago San Martin/OÕHiggins and head south
to the Viedma Glacier descending to Lago Viedma.
1959
Jorge Peterek, carries out a Polish expedition, belonging
to the CABA, Andean Center from Buenos Aires. He explores
the sector of the Dickson and Frio Lagunas, and Cerro Cubo,
naming the Altiplano Polinia. He later died on the Paine Grande.
1960-61
Shipton, Ewer and the Chileans, Garc’a and Marangunic. North
to south crossing from the Jorge Montt Glacier to Lago Argentino
via the Upsala Glacier, a distance of 210 km. The first great
voyage of the SPI, besides being the first to use sleds in
the transport of equipment. The north-south traverse was chosen
to take advantage of the winds in that area. Leaving Punta
Arenas, they arrive at the Jorge Montt Glacier December 10.
They portage their equipment onto the upper glacier arriving
January 2 at the base of the O'Higgins Range and then to the
Lautaro Volcano. On January 20 they reached Viedma Nunatak,
then on January 23 they make the first ascent of Cerro Don
Bosco and Cerro Murall—n. They continued south to the Upsala
Glacier, arriving at Cristina Station on January 30, completing
a crossing of approximately 60% of the SPI in 48 days. Their
success was due to a modern approach in expeditioning. They
used a single pyramid tent, of common use in Antarctica at
that time, which was dismantled like an umbrella and placed
on the sled, saving much time. They also took a sled of 18
kilos, that could be dismantled in four pieces, and one small
sled that Jack Ewer used. Took specially prepared food, a
recent innovation, of 4500 [kcal] / day. However they used
snowshoes instead of skis. Their total load was 310 kilos,
surprising considered the magnitude of the journey and the
total absence of sailing or communication equipment now commonly
used. The genius of Shipton is noticed clearly in this project.
1961
Argentineans, Carlos Sonntag, Teodoro Sifuentes, with a group
of 12 people, penetrate the SPI via Rio Electrico near FitzRoy
in the first winter expedition (July), arriving at the Paso
de los Cuatro Claciares.
1962
Chilean Andean Club expedition led by Claudio Lucero with
Cesar Vasquez, Esteban Siquez, and Fernando Fuentes, cross
from the Fiordo TŽmpano to Lago O'Higgins, about 70 km, returning
via the same route.
1963
Edward Garc’a, Cedomir Marangunic, Alvaro Ya–ez and RenŽ Mart’nez
were members of the University Association of Andinismo. Departed
November 1962 from Lago Electrico and cross to Fiordo Exmouth
and back, returning January 15, 1963, in 50 days.
1963
Glaciologist John Mercer, began work on both sides of the
SPI
1969
Two Japanese expeditions. The first, called Expedition Chotoro
Nakasima from the University of Kioto, conduct scientific
studies in the Pious XI Glacier region on the west coast.
The other group, led by H. Sakagami, together with I. Ikawa,
S. Iwata, M. Maekawa and K. Matsunaga, propose a traverse
from Fiordo Exmouth to the Upsala Glacier. They departed from
Puerto EdŽn with the Chilean Navy, carrying a total load of
600 kilos. They arrived at Exmouth Fiord early in January
and reached the SPI January 8. They crossed the icecap by
March 2, installing 11 camps and climbing sex peaks in the
Cordon Riso Patron. They took 60 days to cover a distance
of only 80 kilometers, seemingly due to bad weather, experiencing
only three good days. They reached Rokko Pass, at 2000 meters
and descended the Upsala glacier. Matsunaga and Maekawa climbed
summit #6 of the Riso Patron, 2950 meters, on February 16,
1969.
1971
Japanese expedition from the University of Jochi, Tokyo. Arrived
Santiago but were delayed more than one and a half months
before gaining support from the Chilean Navy. Three members,
Toschio Takeuchi, Takeo Tsusuki and Takeo Yoshizawa, carry
800 kilos of supplies, having sleds but not skis. Arrived
at Fiordo Falcon on December 3 and had previously placed a
depot at Fiordo Europe. They crossed between the Falcon and
Europe in the slowest recorded expedition - 50 km in 51 day,
naming the Japan plateau and also climbing Cerro Akira and
Cerro Iruka. They introduced the practice of placing intermediate
depots. 1973 Shipton returned for a short expedition to Lautaro.
1976
Pedro Svarka, an Argentinean glaciologist, carries out a winter
voyage between the Upsala glacier and the Marconi Pass - 40
km. Surprisingly he travelled south to north, against the
wind. Later on this route will be repeated many times, even
with commercial groups.
1978
Scottish expedition, leaving the port of Granton in Scotland
in October of 1977. Expedition members, Ian Carr, Dick Port,
William Jeffrey, David Neilson, Wallace Rennie and Doug Anderson.
Sailing on the yacht, Eloisa, 60 feet and 34 tons built by
the skipper, Ian Rennie, they arrive first at Punta Arenas
on February 7 before sailing to Tierra del Fuego. They sail
into Hyatt Sound at the north-western end of the Cordillera
Darwin from where they make a number of ascentsFrom here they
sailed north, where three expeditioners, Nielsen, Jeffrey
and Anderson, cross the SPI from west to east, from Fiordo
Exmouth to the Rio Electrico, using skis and sleds. They were
arrested and imprisoned for crossing illegally into Argentina.
1979
New Zealanders carry out a March expedition from west to east,
from the Trinidad River to Lago Electrico. They climb several
summits in the region.
1979-80
New Zealanders led by Gerry McSweeney. They repeat ShiptonÕs
traverse, but continue south, arriving at Paine. Jacquetta
Smith becomes the first woman to cross the SPI, together with
Paddy Gresham and Chris Blackman. Upon arriving at Cerro Murall—n,
they continue south across the Italy Plateau, arriving near
Fiordo Falcon where they turn around and return to the Upsala
glacier. Possibly with skis and individual sleds.
1981-82
Japanese expedition. Attempted the first complete north-south
crossing of the SPI, entering at Jorge Montt Glacier, on October
10. They persist until January 31, experiencing bad conditions
on the glacier. Total 110 days. There is not much information
about their journey, however in the expedition were members
of the German Andean Club of 1998. The remains of one of their
camps still exists on the edge of the Jorge Montt.
1982-83
French expedition. Very large expedition consisting of Dr.
Jean Louis Hourcadett, Bertrand Doligez, Marc Roquefere and
led by Roger Hemon. The expedition slowly ground down due
to the misunderstanding of the peculiarities of the SPI and
its climate. They use the services of the Chilean Navy leaving
depots at Fiordos Dickson, Falcon, Calvo, Europe, Falla, Exmouth
and Bajo Pascua near the exit of the Jorge Montt, each consisiting
of 300 kilos, with supplies for a month. In total they cater
for 3 months, accumulating a load of more than 1500 kilos.
They used mountaineering skis, dome tents and 1.8m fiberglass
sleds, however they overlooked other important items like
backpacks, gas fuel cannisters, skins for their skis, radio,
down clothing, etc. Departed from Puerto Bellavista to the
bottom of the Seno Ultima Esperanza, near Puerto Natales,
where they disembark with 400 kilos of supplies. They slowly
ascended the Balmaceda Glacier, but found difficulty with
their great loads. Travelling against the wind they arrived
at the Dickson Glacier after 36 days, where they descend to
Cerro Ariel and locate their first depot. They spent much
time climbing around mountains which possibly made them lose
the spirit to continue. In 44 days they travel only 110 km,
using big sleds and travelling against the sun and wind.
1982
French expedition. Departing from Mar del Plata, they use
a sailing ship skippered by Frenchman Philippe Facues, and
enter Fiordo Falcon, disembarking on December 27. Frenchmen
Jean Marc Boivin, Dominique Marchal, Bernad Prud'Homme and
Jean Louis Etienne, the first man to ski solo to the North
Pole, and co-leader with Will Steger of the International
Transantarctic Expedition, a crossing of Antarctica via its
longest axis, 7500 km. They arrived in the Fitz-Roy region
in only 10 days. Initially the group included Denis Ducroz
and Thierry Leroy, but two removed them from the trip. After
completing the march, Boivin, one of the better rock and ice
climbers, continued to Cape Horn, where he climbed the difficult
south wall.
1985
Italians. The famous mountaineer, Walter Bonatti, with Melchiorre
Foresti and Elio Sangiovanni, penetrated the SPI from Fiordo
Bernardo, advancing north until arriving near the Jorge Montt
Glacier, where, on November 27, he climbed a mountain, naming
it Punta Casari.
1985
The Italian Giuliano Giongo, notable Patagonian climber with
ascents of Fitz-Roy and Torre Egger, claimed a crossing of
the SPI. In a story full of uncertainties and inaccuracies,
the Italian mountaineer, Walter Bonatti, discredits GiongoÕs
expedition.
1986
Italian expedition. Guiliano Maseri, Casimiro Ferrari and
six others. Departing in August, three groups bound for Patagonia,
one to Mount Sarmiento, another to Mount San Lorenzo and the
last to the Fiordo Falcon region. In mid-winter they climbed
Cerro Riso Patron, and crossed the SPI arriving at Cristina
Station on Lago Argentino. 1986 Italians. Giuseppe Alippi,
Carlo Buzzi, Guiuliano Maresi, Luciano Spadaccini, Luciano
Bertolina, Luigi Corti, Roberto Maresi and Egidio Spreafico.
A short expedition of 50km in five days from Paso del Viento
near Fitz-Roy to the Cristina Station. From December 20 to
25, without skis or sleds.
1991
South Americans. Marcos Couch, Albert del Castillo and Gabriel
Ruiz from Argentina, with JosŽ Carlos Tamayo from Spain and
the Brazilian Alexander Portela. Initially they install two
depots, one in the Fitz-Roy region, in the Paso del Viento,
and the other in the Perito Moreno Glacier, where they also
climb Cerro Cervantes. They depart April 4, quite late in
the season, entering the Jorge Montt Glacier, with loads of
120 kilos for person, including a rubber boat. They arrive
at Paso del Viento on May 5 in 31 days of good marching, but
they were stopped by the onset of winter.
1992
Italians. Intention to complete a complete traverse of the
SPI in winter, using a strategy of speed. Team consists of
Gianni Rovedatti, Mauricio Folini, Dario Mura and Guiseppe
Miotti, all Italian alpine guides from the Sondrio region.
They arrive in August of 1992, towing 64kg each, but counting
on reaching a depot left in the Fitz-Roy region. They experience
10 days snowing, with only 3 days of good weather, allowing
them to climb the mountain located at the bottom of the valley
of the Lake Jorge Montt, that they call Cerro Valtellina,
1980 m (48¡21'17'' N- 73¡34'78'' S). They ascend the northeast
ridge then return to Caleta Tortel.
1992
Paolo Cavagneto, Alberto Guelpa, Joel Blumenberg and Paolo
Falco, cross in 35 days from Jorge Montt to Laguna Escondida
and Lago Argentino, using skis and modern sleds. One of the
"Big" expeditions to the region intent on carrying out an
"unsupported" expedition. They depart November 4 with 400
kilos of equipment. In only 27 days they arrive south of Lago
Argentino, possibly at the foot of the Falla (Mayo Gap), where
they explore the region for nine days, looking for a pass
to the south. On December 9 they descend the Glaciar Mayo,
abandoning the expedition after discovering it seemed impossible
to continue further south.
1992
Italians. Adriano Cavallaro, Diego Giovanella, Giani Berta,
Enrico Marazzi and the "Patagonico" mountaineer, Italian,
Ermanno Salvaterra, who climbed Cerro Torre several times,
included the first winter ascent of the south face - one of
the most difficult climbs in the world. They leave from the
region of Chalten on October 16 for the Marconi Pass, with
sleds of 40 kilos and mountaineering skis, arriving at the
upper basin of the Glacier Jorge Montt, returning past FitzRoy,
where Marazzi and Berta would leave the SPI. The other three
continue and arrive on October 27 at the Spegazzini Glacier,
which they descend to Lago Argentino. An incredible journey
assisted by extraordinarily good climatic conditions. They
don't use sails.
1993
Chileans, Mauricio Purto, Italo Valle, and Jorge Quinteros
attempt a complete crossing, using a helicopter from Torres
del Paine, to place five depots - Balmaceda Glacier, the upper
Tyndall Glacier, near the Dickson, one before the Mayo Gap
and the last near the exit of the gap, the north border in
the sector of the hill that leads to the "Plateau of Patience."
However, upon leaving on April 26, without placing a foot
on the ice, they returned on May 13 with the explanation that
an avalanche buries the team. One month later they return
by helicopter to look for the depots, but they are buried
by snow and they find nothing. Surprisingly they chose the
south to north route, with the faith that the most difficult
sector in the south will be overcome first.
1993
Two notables Swiss climbers, alpine guides, Frank Dellatorre,
36, and Giovanoli Arthur, 46. Very experienced with ascents
of Denali and Manaslu. They propose a complete crossing of
the SPI, north to south, including the North Patagonian Icecap.
They would cross the water between the two icecaps using a
yacht, the Pelagic, skippered by Skip Novak. Entered the San
Rafael Glacier on September 28, climbing San Valent’n, then
continuing for the Steffen glacier, arriving on October 30.
With Skip Novak, they arrive at Jorge Montt on November 4,
accompanied always by the terrible climate, reaching the Upsala
glacier on December 2. They continued until the edge of the
Mayo Gap, where they got lost, drop a sled into a crevasse
and lose batteries for the GPS. They return, after a total
of 17 days lost, almost without food, losing also their tent.
Finished down the Upsala. A total of 84 days.
1993
Australians. Geoff Butcher, Steven Butcher, Graeme Hoxley
and Alex McConnell. With the intention of a west to east crossing,
they leave in the middle of February from Tortel, at the end
of the Baker River, in a small fishing boat. They enter Fiordo
TŽmpano, where in a week of carrying they reach the SPI and
approach the Lautaro Volcano. However the next 40 km were
heavily crevassed and they were unable to continue. They return
to the fiord and expect the fishing vessel to return after
10 days, which they had arranged if they ran into trouble.
The boat didnÕt return so they made their way over the next
few weeks to the Messier Channel where they flagged down a
boat. The group had no radio. They even attempted to make
a wooden raft but it collapsed. After climbing onto an iceberg,
Geoff Butcher fell off, fracturing three ribs.
1993
Spaniards. Antonio PŽrez Grueso, JosŽ Carlos Tamayo, Antonio
Trabado, JosŽ Luis Bedia and the Argentinean, Sebasti‡n de
la Cruz L and led by Sebasti‡n Alvaro. They attempted a north-south
longitudinal crossing, using sleds and skis, and the support
of helicopters. They leave in February entering Fiordo Calen
and after 10 days of portaging arrive on the plateau on February
28. With light sleds they advanced quickly, arriving at the
Fitz-Roy region on April 14, continuing for almost 12 days
to the Paso del Viento, where they rest and receive food that
was delivered for them by Horacio Bresba and Lucas Kopcke.
They continue on March 27 arriving at the northern border
of the Mayo Gap on April 4, where bad weather stops them.
They wait for nine days until April 13 when transported by
helicopter across the 12 km gap that was judged impossible
to traverse. They landed on the other side of Cerro Bastion,
continuing the following day and arriving April 21 in the
region of the Amalia Glacier. Arriving at the end of their
expedition on April 22, they descend the Pingo Glacier which
leads to the Torres del Paine Park National, from which they
embark on two boats, navigating the Serrano River going out
to the Fiordo Ultima Esperanza and returning to Puerto Natales.
In total: 62 days, 350 km. It was a notable expedition, even
with the use of helicopters to skip the Mayo Gap. Surprisingly
this expedition claims the first total crossing, despite leaving
via the Pingo glacier. The true end is the Balmaceda Glacier,
50 km to the south.
1995
A group of four American guides; Kathy Cosley, Mark Houston,
SP. Parker and John Schutt. They attempt an April crossing
from Fitz-Roy to Torres del Paine, entering the ice at the
Paso del Viento. Arrived at the Mayo Gap, their main objective,
but were unable to find a route through and were forced to
escape to Lago Argentino. Continued by horse and then boat
to the town of Calafate. They climbed a mountain on the SPI,
posthumously naming it Cerro Julie, in honor of a friend,
Julie Culberson. They also ascend Cerro Mayo near Lago Argentino.
1995
Germans. Arrive at Valpara’so by the middle of September,
with Arved Fuchs, veteran of numerous polar expeditions, and
the only man, at the time, to reach the North and South Pole
in the same year. He arrived in Chile with the intention of
crossing the SPI, north to south. The large team includes
Chileno-German Gunther JŸllich, and Chilean, Pablo Besser.
They sail south to the Jorge Montt, where Arved is assisted
onto the ice by a team of 6 people. The rest continue south,
navigating the Patagonian channels, arriving at Fiordo Peel
where 3 people continue on a small zodiac. Gunther JŸllich
remained on the beach, at the foot of the Garc’a Glacier,
and Pablo Besser continued with Sigga Ragna Sverrisdottir,
from Iceland. After 3 weeks of looking for the route, they
arrive at a small region surrounded by mountains from where,
in some days of good weather, they make the first of more
than nine acents. They also see the northern slopes of the
Mayo Gap in its entirety. Arved Fuchs, with Till Gottbrath
and the American Roger Schmidt, continue on skis and with
sleds, and arrive in about 30 days, crossing the 270 km with
the use of 10 m2 parawings (kites), covering more than 40
km.in a day. They join the team at the Mayo Gap where they
are hit by a 10 day storm. One tent is destroyed and the team
of five live in the remaining tent, hence naming the region,
"Plateau of Patience". They descend off the Gap dropping 900
metres in 5 days. A sled containing food fell 60 metres to
the bottom of a crevasse and had to be retrieved. They finished
on a beach at the foot of the Garc’a Glacier, where they find
food left by the boat. The boat returns, entering until the
end of Fiordo Peel. In total, 50 days from the Jorge Montt
to the Peel.
1995
Swiss. Same team as 93, Franco Dellatorre and Arturo Giovanoli.
They began one week before Fuchs, and travelled quickly despite
heavy sleds. Abandoned attempt when they lost their tent in
a storm above Fitz-Roy.
1996
Pablo Besser, Rodrigo Fica, and Jorge Crossley travel the
route from Jorge Montt to the Mayo Gap in 56 days, a distance
of 256 km. Towing 1.85m sleds on mountaineering skis. Upon
arriving at the Mayo Gap, Jorge is evacuated by the Chilean
Navy and the expedition is abandoned. The rest of the team
exit from the Mayo Gap in only 5 hours.
1998
International/Chileans. Soames Flowerree, Chilean, Dereck,
Ralph Rymill from Norway and JosŽ Velez of Ecuador, climbers
from the German Club of Santiago. Intend to cross from Jorge
Montt to Upsala glacier. Departing February, they enter the
Jorge Montt but are hampered by the effects of El Nino. The
glacier is in terrible condition. And they take three weeks
to ascend it. Finally arrive at the Viedma Glacier, enjoying
20 days of good weather, but their progress south is difficult
and they descend at Paso del Viento. 160 km total.
1998-
1999 Chilean Transpatagonian
Expedition. Pablo Besser (leader) Rodrigo Fica, Mauricio Rojas
and JosŽ Pedro Montt. The first unsupported north-south crossing
of the SPI. In 98 days they traveled 400 km with more than
60 camps. they They crossed the Mayo Gap for the first time,
in 30 days of work, demonstrating that it is possible, though
very difficult. Exited via the Balmaceda Glacier.
1999
USA. Kyle Bohensteil (leader) Karl Feaux, Rob Weber and Bart
Matthews. NAGIS surveying expedition. Reached the plateau
via the Jorge Montt. Intended to climb Lautaro but hampered
by bad weather. Returned via same route.
|